In the days when those of the Generation Perdue were talking end-stopping and enjambement in the intellectual Montparnasse district of Paris, one of its enfants terribles made a sport out of boozing. Ernest Hemingway has become perhaps as known for his monumental drinking as for his prose, but his legacy lives on in the wood-panelled Arcadia that is the Bar Hemingway of the Hotel Ritz Paris.

Ernest Hemingway's Playground

Originally an ante-room for women whose husbands anaesthetised themselves in the bar across the hall, the Bar Hemingway was given a radical makeover by Colin Field, head bartender, in 1994. After the loss of head Barman Bertand, Englishman Colin Field skilfully remodelled the bar to retain all the charm of its heyday. Wood panelled walls, a rank of over-stuffed leather stools, Hemingway paraphernalia on all sides and immaculately dressed white-jacketed staff give a twinge of nostalgia for a happier yesteryear when Sunny Delight was a state of weather-induced rapture and art wasn't made out of old beds and placentas.

Colin Peter Field: Bartender Par Excellence

Steering this anachronistic gin-joint through the choppy waters of modern drinking is legendary bartender Colin Field. An extracted Englishman, bespectacled Colin can be found nightly flitting hither and thither through the Ritz bearing trays of exquisite nectars, at once greeting, serving, advising and flattering customers in a multitude of languages. His knowledge of current affairs is formidable; he reads a panoply of newspapers in different tongues each morning so that he can chat and natter with his chic clientele in their language of choice. This kind of attention to the minutiae of his craft has led Forbes Magazine to name him 'World' Best Bartender' a number of times, for him to have been chosen to host a cocktail tasting suspended 50 metres in the sky above the Tuileries gardens in 2009, and for him to be recognised by those in the world of bartending as the godfather, Il Padrino, the Boss, the Big Man. He is a living legend.

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